20211215 Paris

Bit of a lazy morning since night before last was a short sleep.  Up late last night after moving house and up at eight this morning after a good night’s sleep.  Spent time writing up yesterday’s adventure and setting up all the charging and clothing and bathroom things so they are easily accessible again.

Ok.  Took a seven hour walk today.  Just got back to rest my bones before I venture forth again in search of dinner.

Walked toward the Bastille along the Promenade Richard Lenoir.  From there you can duck down into a small canal and through a tunnel to walk along the Seine.  Followed the river path up to Point Louis Philip and Point Saint Louis to cross the river and have a look at Notre Dam.  Completely cordoned off of course.  Still much work to do there.

Continued on crisscrossing the Seine at least at Point d’Arcole and Petit Point Cardinal Lustiger.  Wandered South past Saint-Étienne-du-Mont then over to meander within the Jardin des Plantes.

Leaving le Jardin I snatched a quick sandwich from  Délice Jussieu, which is near Fontaine George Cuvier, and then skirted Sorbonne Université Campus Pierre et Marie Curie intending to cross at Point de Sully.  However, when I passed Institut du monde arabe I saw that the walk on this side of the river had more to offer.

Instead I walked down through Jardin Tino Rossi which includes Musée de la sculpture en plein air.  Captured a recording of a lone blackbird singing against the backdrop of the orchestra of the city with sirens and motorcycles and passing conversations.

Crossing instead at Pont d’Austerlitz I made my jagged way back into the Eleventh and my newly adopted home.  Disburdening myself of my camera gear, I prepared for a dinner trip.  Said preparations consisting essentially of not carrying a bunch of heavy glass.

We walked all of two minutes across the street to a place called Fréquence.  Probably be considered a hipster bar back home:  a wall of vinyl and a pair of turntables are the only music source, mono-directionally frozen clear ice cubes (cut from blocks), and a dedication to precise technique at the bar and in the kitchen.  The music centers around reggae and maybe seventies-era soul.

We had Old Fashions, one of the best I’ve had.  Confident in their solid position in the community, they don’t project much from the street.  With the blinds pulled it’s difficult to tell whether they are open from the street.  No flashy signage.  Maybe that’s just the Wednesday personage?  The music, the food, and the drinks are all worth your time.  And the people are charming, friendly and knowledgeable.

We ate a plate of gyoza and something resembling popcorn chicken in appearance.  Both were exceptional preparations accompanied by exquisite sauces.  The fried chicken bits, or the sauce, were even a bit spicy (the French using cayenne outside Louisiana?!).

Seriously fun to have a perfectly clear ice cube.  Is it worth it to order blocks of specially frozen ice and cut them into drink-sized cubes, to shave them and rinse them in particular for each cocktail?  I’m happy to pay someone for such a simple pleasure.

Back across the street to crash.


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