Category Archives: That’s Life

What’s going on in my little world.

Ho Chi Minh 12 Nov

Today we plan to visit Dist 1.  I have uploaded a couple of pictures into yesterday’s post for fun!  Just waiting for my hard-working friends to rise and shine.

Bill and I grabbed a cab and disembarked at the Opera House.  From there we essentially walked in circles, which gave the fascinating perspective of seeing the same locations as they transformed over the course of the day.

We winded through streets and the occasional park (often repeatedly as noted) watching the people and with me snapping pics at every turn, talking about life and living as only old friends are able, laughing the mad laugh of camaraderie.

At one end of a long narrow park was a statue of Ho Chi Minh himself.

And of course it’s really all about the friends we made along the way.

Bunny buddies!
Bunny buddies!
Moto-mates!
Moto-mates!

We stopped into a couple of local breweries (taprooms) in part because I wanted a baseball cap.  The first had the trucker style (plastic mesh back and plastic snaps for adjustment) and those are the saddest of all caps never to adorn my head.  The second has a decent if thin cap, but it was all white.  That’s just asking for trouble.  I suggested the should make a black version.

Bill spotted a lonely epaulet on the sidewalk and pulled the aluminum bit from that and added it to his shirt.

Bill promoted
Bill promoted

Then Bill dragged me (unwittingly) into a red light district.  At one point as we winded our way through these tiny twisting alleys a group of a dozen young ladies descended upon us in their all-white attire offering all the good times one can imagine.  I tried to assure them I could not sustain them all, even on my best day.  We did manage to extricate ourselves with our junk and our wallets intact.

The sky was warning of rain so we ducked into a Japanese noodle place about the size of a closet and took seats at the bar (the only seats were bar seats, duh).  Excellent ramen.

Thought the rains were done so we left there and wandered through this labyrinth of alleys more, but we still were getting wet.  Eventually it was raining pretty heavily again, so we ducked into a gelateria.  Always a good time to have ice cream.  We sat on the second floor, where no one else happened to be, next to the window watching the rain pound down.

Gelato gal
Gelato gal

Back out on the main streets again Bill pointed out a building with balconies all they way up and businesses on each, so we walked across that boulevard and started up the winding stairs to see what all was in this building.

It was several stories tall (a dozen?) and each floor contained some number of restaurants or cafes or shops.  After exploring the lot of passageways and alcoves, we descended from the top floor to where we found a coffee shop.  Bill had coffee and I had passion fruit tea.  We watched the rains subside from our balcony.

Bad Place for Diet
Bad Place for Diet

There was some thumping music happening at the steps of the Opera House as we walked past again.  We had seen the trucks setting up all the music gear from the balcony.

After this we stopped into the second brewery looking for a cap.  Seven Bridges is the one with the white cap which I also rejected.  (It’s ok to be picky.)  But we did stay for a beer.  I had a Fire Eater, a stout with cocoa and chilies, and Bill had a Tangerine Sunset (he likes the hoppy citrus beers).

Still it was raining so we ducked across the alley to another Japanese eatery.  We had grilled pork-wrapped asparagus, thinly sliced and grilled beef tongue, and yaki udon.

Finally grabbed a cab back home but went through the mall and explicitly Decathalon where I did finally get myself a cap (more a military style that baseball but nice).  The bathrooms have tiny yellow pucks in the urinals and the bathroom smells strongly of lemon.  Never have figured out that our pink pucks are supposed to smell like.

Shelter from the Storm?
Shelter from the Storm?
JamesIsIn

Ho Chi Minh 11 Nov

Wrote out notes from yesterday.  Getting ready to leave now at eight.  Will connect with B and M after their workshop day finishes (maybe 16:30?) and we will walk back together.  Going to look for a city map and try to get that damned SIM card today.

Walked to the so-called mega-mall next to this tower to get a SIM.  No such stores there.  I talked with a security guard and eventually through gestures and gesticulations he understood I wanted a SIM card for my phone.  He sent me to a specific store we found on the ol’ gmaps.

On the way to get that I stopped to visit my new Brazilian friend and to see his dojo.  Very nice dojo just a couple years old.  Also with cross-fit and other exercise machines.  He told me to go “the yellow store” and I showed him where I was going.  He said that was the one.  We promised to do something together and I left.

Mapped to the phone store to see the facade was, as you may have guessed, yellow.

Got a SIM.  I guess I can make calls.  Is that important?  Maybe.

Next I hit a couple of bookstores to fin a city map for Ho Chi Minh.  Neither had any but the second one took my phone number (what?) and would get back to me.

Then I took off for some more wandering.  I bought a one of these fresh squeezed sugar cane and lime drinks.  Pretty tasty.

As I wandered I heard some French.  I introduced myself to two friends who were both Basque, one from France and one from Spain.  We talked for a long time and the Spaniard returned to work, so we two remained and talked until noon.

He invited me to lunch at a nearby Vietnamese place he knew and we had a noodle dish with beef.  I had a coconut water (which here means they hand you a severed coconut and a straw) and he had a beer over ice.  The ice here tends to be big long not quite cubes and not quite tubes.

After we parted I wandered more and found a series of narrow passages and finally a promenade along a small river.  Of course many photographs.

Rooster
Rooster
Happiness
Happiness
Avocado Fresh
Avocado Fresh

Finally made my way back home.  We will bbq at the pool soon but the lady from the bookstore (the manager it turns out) called my phone!  I know!

B and M wanted to go for a run so I make the fast walk (maps said 11 minutes) back to the bookstore to get the map.  The manager was not there yet.  I beat her.  So I wanted for her and selected a couple of pens to try for writing.

You may know I’m picky about my writing pens.  They must be thin and oh so very fast.  Anyway, I bought one I knew from before and two more so I can fall back if neither of the two new ones pans out.  We shall see.

Back home again waiting on B and M so we can get to grilling.

More a picnic than a proper bbq but we had a good time eating weird chips and other nibbles along with some crispy pork belly.  We were four with a work friend of B and M.  Dipped toes in the pool.  Drank some drinky-poos.  M had made pickled daikon.  Good times.

Now half-past nine and we are talking about what to do tomorrow as we venture into Dist 1.  Food, friends, and fun.

JamesIsIn

Ho Chi Minh 10 Nov

I think I was up about 05:45.  Talked with B and M until I sent them off to school.  Chilled and moved what I’ve written to my blog now that I have Internet for my lappy.  No rush; I’m on vacation.

Walked to a small park on the Saigon River  called Công viên Thảo Điền to see what I could hear.  Unfortunately there was a backhoe at work next door.  We shall see if those audio recordings offer anything worthwhile.  Many young men and a few women were doing various health activities, some using the included park equipment.

Dino-roar
Dino-roar
Half of Flying Is Falling
Half of Flying Is Falling
Bent Metal
Bent Metal

That having failed I headed back toward the restaurant and shopping areas for additional wandering.

Hex Yeah
Hex Yeah

Met a trio of Romanians on the sidewalk and talked with them until their cab arrived.

There was a security guy in a hammock and when I offered to take his picture he insisted I wait until he pulled out this two- or three-foot long pipe to smoke for the photo.  Clearly the highlight of his day.

Tough Jobs
Tough Jobs

Found some chickens in wire rings on the sidewalk.

Chickenosaurus
Chickenosaurus

Visited something that was either a shrine or a park or maybe something else entirely.  Hung out making a recording of the sounds and trying to shoot some more birds.  Slightly better luck here.

More Elegant Dino-roar
More Elegant Dino-roar
The Other Half of Flying Is Not Falling
The Other Half of Flying Is Not Falling
Yellow
Yellow
Always Building
Always Building
Lift
Lift
Twist
Twist

Later found a Korean noodle place and had their lunch special plus an order of gyoza.  The tea may have been a bit thin but it was bottomless and icy.

Soup
Soup
The Other Part
The Other Part
Tree Seven Nine
Tree Seven Nine
Pretty Typical
Pretty Typical

Met a guy from Texas and his lady friend.  They gave me tons of advice and place ideas for visiting.  Also told me about a gelateria.

Ralf’s Artisan Gelato was tiny.  There was just enough room for the three girls to stand behind the counter.  It was maybe two feet between either the entrance wall or the back wall to the gelato counter.  They three huddled behind and me on the other side.  Such a tiny space was easy to keep cool.

A Little Gelato
A Little Gelato

I ordered a scoop of Smurf (which was vanilla with chocolate chips and somehow made blue, perhaps using blueberry flour if that’s a good translation) and a scoop of cherry variegato.  They asked if I wanted a free sample-sized scoop as well.  Duh.  Chocolate.  Even had a little chocolate cookie thing on top.

They offered for me to sit inside which meant sitting on a small stool next to a small fridge between the door and the payment counter.  Perfect place to eat my gelato.  Definitely made up for the lame ice cream from yesterday.

After that I returned to Quan Bui Garden to try one of their cocktails and to wait for the brewery to open so I can maybe buy a baseball cap.  I had the Saigon Hustle (black label whiskey, bar-made jackfruit syrup, D O M (?), egg white, and lime).

Saigon Hustle
Saigon Hustle

Keep hearing Christmas music and have to remind myself it’s November:  80-100f is not my usual November temperature range.

Met a guy from London and his Vietnamese girlfriend.  We talked for a couple of hours maybe.  Another quick violent rain storm and another recording of that.

Animated Conversation
Animated Conversation
Rain
Rain

Back to Pasteur Street but no baseball caps today.  Had the jasmine IPA.  Think I prefer the jasmine amber because the jasmine comes through more clearly.

Walked back and started to write this up but was too exhausted to finish.

JamesIsIn

Ho Chi Minh 9 Nov

Up by half-passed six.  My plan to get ahead of jet-lag seems to be going well.  What did I do?  After work on Thursday I pushed my sleep time by two hours each night.  So, normally I would go bed around midnight.  Thursday I went to bed about two, Friday about four, Saturday about six, and Sunday night I didn’t sleep since I left fort the airport at eight (sleeping instead in the first part of the flight to Korea).  We shall see what it’s like later this evening.

Got out of the apartment by eight or nine I suppose.  Took a three or so hour walk around the neighborhood.  There are no strait streets here.  Any road you find that appears strait probably curves back around on itself eventually.  That being said, I did walk very far away.

Hanging Around
Hanging Around
Canis familiaris
Canis familiaris
Pod People?
Pod People?
Security Prevention
Security Prevention
Rethinking Interior v Exterior
Rethinking Interior v Exterior
My Front Door Sux
My Front Door Sux
Construction
Construction
Enter: Stage Right
Enter: Stage Right
Hmmm… somehow familiar…
Hmmm… somehow familiar…
You'll Be Fine
You’ll Be Fine
Water Feature
Water Feature
Tree Eight Seven
Tree Eight Seven
Work in Progress
Work in Progress
Build a Living Wall
Build a Living Wall

Came back to rinse off and to read a bit before seeking something to eat.  Now it’s noon so I’ll try that.

Visited a home cooking style restaurant called Quan Bui Garden.  Had a couple of dishes.

I had Xoai, Thom, Chanh, Day & Mat Ong (mango, pineapple, passion fruit and honey smoothie) to drink and suon non sot mat ong (sauteed pork ribs with honey sauce) and green mango salad with dried gourami fishs [sic].  Also had this one thing they called ice cream but it was a lie.  If there are ice crystals it’s not ice cream.

Ribs and Salad
Ribs and Salad

Met a couple of Dutch ladies living here.  They told me about two other restaurants worth trying.

Lots of wandering.  Lots of pictures.  Friendly people saying hello and waving all the time.

Purple Flower
Purple Flower
The Paver
The Paver
Peace
Peace
Thanos
Thanos
A Little Lizard
A Little Lizard
Perched and Ready
Perched and Ready
Man with Hat
Man with Hat
The Remodel
The Remodel
New-Old
New-Old
Phone Parasol
Phone Parasol
French Security
French Security
The Ravages of Mime
The Ravages of Mime
Concreters
Concreters
Traffic Lights Is for Suckas!
Traffic Lights Is for Suckas!

Visited Eddie’s New York Diner.  Quality real milk shakes.  Banana-chocolate-salted-caramel.  Met an Australian lady and her two boys.  Talked about Richard Linkletter and the book I’m reading called The Mother Tongue:  English and How It Got that Way.  Discovered bamboo toothpicks.  Wooden toothpicks are sucky fence-posts.  I had no idea.

More wandering.  Back to the apartment with B and M and some dinner.  Albanian chicken dish, salad du jour, and some bitter soup thing (also Albanian).  The soup was ok.  Bill warned it’s not for everyone.  I can see why some may not like it.  Glad enough I’ve tried it.

Taking another walk now to see the night life in the neighborhood.

Let's Drunk
Let’s Drunk

Walked over to a local brewery called Pasteur Street Brewery.  Mind blown.  They are one of several taprooms for the actual brewery (elsewhere in Ho Chi Minh though no longer on Pasteur Street).  They have a selection of near two dozen beers.  This includes a saison, a goze, a wit, and a solid variety of other classic styles.  A refreshing change to see only one IPA and one double IPA on tap.  Most of the beers include some local adjunct like dragon fruit or lemongrass.  I tried five small pours (plus the four more which the bartender offered) and will return to see what else they have.

Impressive Variety
Impressive Variety
Full Color Spectrum
Full Color Spectrum

Met a guy who was living in Ballard then Greenwood just prior to moving to Vietnam, was it seven or eleven years ago?  Great conversation with him from maybe 21:30 when I was about to leave for exhaustion until nearly midnight when I begged my leave for total exhaustion.  Did get a recording of a downpour, could be good.

Sentinel of the Night
Sentinel of the Night
JamesIsIn

Seattle to Ho Chi Minh 7 Nov but Also 8 Nov Because… Time

Fly out of SeaTac two carry-on as per usual. No one cared about my little key-chain knife because I tossed that into my suitcase. Not the best location because I wasn’t prepared. This will come up later.

The Korean Air staff eventually asked me to use one of their shitty disposable n95 masks because apparently the exhalation mechanism for my professional n99 mask wasn’t up to their standards. This is a laughable line to draw since these disposable masks do not provide a tight seal and I would argue provide less exhalation protection (under ideal conditions though probably much worse in cases where the wearer has a beard or other facial anomalies which would inhibit the facial contouring of these cheap masks.

Oh, the woes of our disposable culture. (The finger often gets wagged at Americans but this is clearly a global phenomenon.)

Korean airport flight transfer requires going through security check again. I think this happens everywhere though. Not clear one could make a good argument in favor. Anyway, intrepid go-getter x-ray operator earned his wings by confiscating my toothpick holder which does admittedly have a small blade attached.

No one is ever going to hijack another plane with just box knives. The passengers wouldn’t allow it. We have all these residual security procedures in place assuming this is still a threat. It’s not. Unfortunately there are still a lot of frightened people here on Earth.

Took a picture from the Korean airport showing some low mountains. For some reason that struck me as being quintessentially Korean. Not sure why. Is that something Korea is known for?  MASH?

Mostly the food was meh.

Bill and Maj met me at the airport. I walked out the exit to meet them to find a sea of waiting friends and families. Hundreds of people waiting at the airport for someone or other to walk though those doors. It’s really unheard of in the States for even a single person to meet anyone at the airport: We give them train instructions and meet them at a bus stop or something. Walking out to see all those people six or either deep staring at the doors through which I walked definitely raised my eyebrow.

Cab ride back to their apartment on floor 33. I learned “bam un” is thanks. We ate the banana bread I brought (one of my new versions adding oatmeal, oat bran, and ground flax seeds). (Thinking it’s too gooey but both liked the level of goo.)

Washed the 15 or whatever hour flight time of my exhausted body and wrote this up.

Also, on the flight I read most of The Adventures of Pinocchio (Carlo Collodi) and on the second leg met two Americans from Vietnam (one from Seattle and one from MN and a giant Vikings fan).

JamesIsIn

Ian Thomas Parks, in Memoriam

Well, Thursday last my world and the wider world of music lost a bit of its spark.

Ian 20070622
Ian 20070622

I met Ian while we were both contracting for Miliman Care Guidelines.  We became fast friends due to many common interests, including but not limited to computer shit and all things music.  (He was a developer and I was supporting an xml product.  We both played guitar.)

He once told me that when his album went platinum he would give me his acoustic guitar.

Many years later, due to my regard for his knowledge of both music and musicians, I looked to him when I wanted to start doing music shows here in my backyard.  He pointed me to John Elliott (who strangely was just releasing an album called Backyards) who came to Peavine Alley to play our first music show (bring Aly Marcus to open).

John's & Peavine's First Show 20120728
John’s & Peavine’s First Show 20120728

That was ten summers ago.  John plays here every couple of years on his tours.

John 20210731
John 20210731

John loves coming here and we love having him.

Thanks, Ian.

Ian and John 20140815
Ian and John 20140815

Actually, through Ian I have met a lot of folks.  A lot.  It’s hard not to when we are both infectiously gregarious.  Take for example the traveling Argentinians.

The Traveling Argentinians 20140818
The Traveling Argentinians 20140818

They were traveling.  They met Ian.  They were looking for a place to crash.  They crashed with me.  We visited Harry (another enormous musical force in my life).  They reached out today.  Of course they did.  We are all good people.  A force for good in the world.  Much love.

Do you have an Ian story?  So many do.  So many do.

Good-bye, old friend.

Ian 20190321
Ian 20190321

On Ian’s birthday (20230208), some of us gathered and hit a couple of the old Ballard haunts in celebration.  Here is a photo from our night out.

Pinballers in Arms
Pinballers in Arms
JamesIsIn

20211227 Orléans-Paris-Seattle

Up lazily between eight and nine.  Last day.  Have to make my way back to Paris tonight since the early train isn’t early enough to make my flight.  I’ve messaged with Edgar and Fred so I may have someone to hang with until the wee hours when I have to depart for the airport.  The flight is at eight so I’ll probably leave Paris by five.  Also I have to get a test today so I can return to the US.  Hope I pass!  Fucking zombies.

Belly really bothering me after eating so much the night before so I spent much of the day lounging around, reading, getting things ready for travel.  But by the afternoon I really need to find that test so I head out in search of my test.

In Paris there were pop-up testing centers all over the place.  But this is Orléans.  They do have several pharmacie but even the self-tests are running out in some of them.  And not all of them perform the proper antigen test for flying.  I walk to the first one.  He can’t help.  I ask where and he shrugs.  I walk to the second one and read a sign indicating they are out of tests (we’ll come back to this).  I walk to the third one and wait in line.  By this point I’m overheated and my belly is annoyed with me.

I get to the person at the counter and explain I need a test for flying.  She offers me a test in a box.  I don’t think this will work so she asks another.  They think I need a lab so she looks up the address for this lab and offers to take a picture of this with my phone.  I pull out my phone and get the camera ready and am also trying to remove some of my layers because I’m overheated and I’m also trying to understand what she is saying because this is medical jargon and I’m pretty lost and my mask is keeping my face hot and wet and I’m stressed to find this test.

Long story short, I pass out before I can get myself cooled down.  Seemingly everyone in the shop leaps to my aid.  Super embarrassed.  They sit me up and help me get some of my layers off.  Then they help me to some chairs in a waiting area.  Terribly embarrassing.  Anyway, I sit there until I am ready and cool again.

No scarf, no hat, and my jacket open I make my way toward the lab.  Can’t find the entrance only the exit.  So I go in the exit.  I explain my situation:  must have test to fly.  They can’t help me.  I need a pharmacie.  I feel like Yossarian.

I start walking back toward the apartment thinking maybe I’ll talk to Flo, see if she can help me find what I need.  I decide to call the Embassy as I’m walking.  They shunt me to a recording.  The recording says I need an antigen test that comes with a QR code from a pharmacie.  I turn on my heels and walk back to the previous one.

I explain what I need:  antigen test and QR code.  Does the test in the box provide that?  No.  The very nice lady walks me to the street, points to another green cross glowing in the near distance, and says “go there”.  I go there.

That’s the one with the sign I mentioned earlier.  The thing is that one has a sign that says they are out of tests.  I was caught by the verb they used for “out of” which translates as “breach”.  This helped me to overlook the autotest (self-test) part of the sign.  They can test; they just are out of the self-test boxes.

They can test me.  I get into a second line to wait for my test.  Back up the nose they go (just one nostril here!) and tickle my brain a bit.  Come back in half an hour I’m told.  And half an hour later I have a piece of paper with my negatif.  Fucking ordeal.  Done.

I return to the apartment to rest and shower.

After that I venture out to get some nibbles for the plane (remember that Delta flight and no food service on account of the plague?).  I walk past the new apartment to see if Flo and Raynal are working but the lights are out.  I walk back and get my food situated in a plastic back from the bread purchase and stick that all in the fridge.  Mostly I’m ready to go.

The first morning train is too late to give me time to get to the airport so I will take an evening train instead.  I text Flo and they are downstairs.  I hang with them for a bit and tell them of my testing woes and my embarrassing moment.  It’s been a day.

We watch the President and the Health Minister on TV talking about the plague.  My basic impression is “don’t be idiots; wear your fucking masks!”.  The US State Department has France at level 4, which means don’t travel there.  You’d have to be an idiot to travel to France!  Zombies everywhere.

I’m going to take the train about half-past nine.  Flo suggests we get pizza.  I figure I’ll try eating a bit.  I eat one small piece.  I fucking love pizza!  It’s been a day.

I get everything ready and drag everything back down to say good-bye to F&R and hand over the keys.  I promise to come again before a decade this time.  Now I slog to the train station.

For the second time the stupid machine doesn’t like my card or something.  I have to switch to a different machine to get my ticket.  At least I’m ready for that this time.

I’m looking for the train since I can’t see an indication on the ticket for maybe which spot to find it and I talk to another guy going to Austerlitz.  I just follow him until we are situated in a train car.  Rest more for that hour train ride.

We get to Paris and it’s raining pretty good.  My plan to walk to the next station sucks.  Fuck it.  I walk the forty minutes.  I marvel at all the testing pop-ups.  Keep in mind it’s nearly eleven.  I could get ten tests right now.  Ten tests and a fucking cocktail.

I have some real trouble finding the entrance for the station.  There was the helpful bus driver who thought it was best for me to take a bus from the next street to a totally different station.  I walked in the direction indicated but really just went looking for someone else to ask.

I circled that entrance like a stalking cat.  Well, like a stalking cat with Alzheimer’s and no clear objective.  I’d ask someone and they’d point just over there and turn left.  I’d see nothing resembling stairs or an escalator or anything.  Finally I turn some corner and there is this huge subterranean entrance with long glorious escalators four wide descending into the bowels of the Earth.  I go down and buy a ticket for the train.

Then I walk back up and mark this location on my map.

Now I go in search of a bar.  My plan is to hang out not at the airport.  I find this great bar called Mamie where I have a juice cocktail and listen to the great DJ music they are running.  I chat with the owner.  He tells me that after he closes there is a bar around the corner which has a stage (a stage bar) and live music.  So when he closes I walk around the corner.

I find it but at first it looks packed and overflowing.  I stand behind three other guys with suitcases waiting for the bouncer to finish telling some asshat to piss off.  Then it’s scan our QR codes and in we go.  Turns out it’s just the outdoor patio that’s packed and overflowing.  There is plenty of room inside.  I sit next to the stage.  I mean it’s a small place so everywhere is next to the stage.  Those three other guys sit at the table next to me.  It’s a hip little music club.

They are from further South in France and are on their way to Columbia for a wedding.  We talk and the music plays and we are having a great time.

I order a Kriek but it’s not 10e so the bartender doesn’t want my plastic.  I offer to pay for a tea as well which I will drink later.  We do that.

Mostly the music is American rock covers (Nirvana, ZZ Top, Queen (UK), others) but they do slip in a French punk classic (Antisocial by Trust).  Everybody is into whatever they do.  It’s a fun night.

We talk about getting to the airport.  I check the train times.  If I run down now I can catch this train.  They suggest I come with them via Uber.  The train is only a 10e loss and we are having a ball.

More music it is then.  And I kinda want to be going to Columbia for a buddy’s wedding.  Eventually the hour comes and we head outside to find that Uber.  France isn’t allowing anyone in the front seat due to the plague and Uber can’t count so send cars that can’t hold four humans in the back.  We order a special car (read:  van) for a bit more coin.  Off we are driving for the airport.

Air France only allows 12kg of carry-on luggage.  I have no choice but to check my suitcase.  This sucks because baggage takes forever.  Not submitting it.  That took no time.  It’s at the other end.

Anyway, I get through security and meet back up with my new friends.  Our gates are close so we settle in at a table and get some nibbles (for them) and coffees (for them) and some water (for me).  I also eat some of my carrots.  I offer, of course, but they say something very French about it being the wrong time (of day).  I explain my belly situation.  They are sympathetic.  I figure the fiber might help.

Their flight is called first so then I walk over to my gate to wait the last little bit before boarding.

Descent flight.

Amsterdam airport must be the best I’ve seen.  It’s like someone made signs.  Intelligible well-placed signs.  Nice job.

I can’t use the machine to print this boarding pass.  I think it’s because of the test requirement.  A nice lady hooks me up.

Another nice flight.  Sat next to a kid from Valencia on his way to see a friend who is an exchange student in Seattle.  And a guy who works in remodeling here in Seattle.  Mostly I read my books and nod off from time to time.  Making occasional long-legged walks to the toilet or around the plane to keep my knees from seizing up.

Back to SeaTac and the long slog through all the check points.  Fill out this piece of paper.  Show it to this person who stamps it.  “Do you have any food or stuff?”  No, I lie.  Go there to get your luggage.  Wait.  Wait.  Wait.  Get your luggage.  Show your paper.  “Do you have all your luggage?”.  I do.  Welcome to the USA!

Long walk to the train.  My phone is going nuts because it’s in range again.  I have to disable the Euro SIM to get everything working again.  Beep beep boop.  I’m on a train.  I think I forgot to pay.  My friend C meets me at the ID train station so I don’t have to deal with the bus thing with the snow.

Back home.  Dump both bags on the living room floor and take a fucking shower.  It’s been a day.

JamesIsIn

20211226 Orléans

Up with my alarm around eight this morning.  Flo goes to see her mother every Sunday for dinner so we will get together for lunch today.  I spend time writing about yesterday and sending pictures and responding to people.  Tomorrow night I will have to make my way back to Paris and eventually to the airport.  I can’t take a Tuesday morning train because the earliest train doesn’t give me comfortable time to get to the airport before my eight o’clock flight time.

I will head down for lunch shortly.

Great lunch of roast chicken, green salad, and truffled mashed potatoes with Flo and Raynal and Nina.  Then cheeses and desserts.  I am happy to know these people.  So kind and so loving.  Very happy to be a part of their lives.

We talk about tomorrow, my last day.  They work, of course, so lunch is out.  After work they must work on the new apartment (demolition of the old bathtub with hammer and chisel).  Thus tomorrow I will be on my own again in this wonderful village, as I am for the remainder of the afternoon now that F&R are leaving to visit Flo’s mother (and to feed Manon’s cat along the way).

If I do not see them otherwise I will stop at the new apartment to say good-bye.

As usual, my dreams are larger than time.  Even though I have done a lot I can see that there are unchecked items which will remain on my list.

I have made my promises to return, and with this new job these seem likely to come true.  If I visited France every couple of years for a month my French would get very good.

Regardless of my plans for the remainder of today, I have a full belly and can continue to rest my feet.

As it is my last chance I looked to see if any of the restaurants on my Orléans list were open this Sunday.  Ty’s restaurant was not.  However, the restaurant recommended by the Parisian couple was open:  Le Brin de Zinc.  It’s a place with fun decorations and an extensive menu.  Also pretty busy (though it turns out there are like five different seating areas over three floors and the main bar and two outdoor areas so it’s possible only the lower bit was full).

I start with Notre incontournable foie gras me-cuit, which is their foie gras served with a rhubarb compote with Sichuan peppers.  I still prefer fig.  The foie gras is quite good though.  I also order a kir royale.

For the main I order Poêlée de rognon de veau, which is veal kidney served with pasta in a house-made foie gras sauce.  At this point the server stopped me.  He was very concerned that I did not know what I was getting myself into.  The menu does show the English version which clearly states kidney.  He was struggling to explain I was ordering organ meat (though he did keep pointing to his liver) and I kept saying “yes, it’s kidney”.  Finally he looked up the word on his phone and we agreed it was in fact kidney.  I explained to him you have to try new things.

He was very afraid for me and thought I’d perhaps lost my mind.

The sauce was amazing.  It is true the kidney has a strong flavor, but being veal I would think it less strong than beef kidney.  That being said, if you cut a piece and combined that will the sauce and a bit of carrot or mushroom and some pasta it was pleasantly balanced.  He asked several times if it was ok.  I think he was still suspicious even when I emptied the fry pan in which it was served.  Kids today…

I ate a dessert.  Probably I was already full but it was called ma cherie and was a scoop of chocolate ice cream, two scoops of cherry sorbet, chocolate sauce, berry sauce, some crunchy bits of cookie, and whipped cream.  So… full…

Nothing to do but return to the apartment and sleep.

JamesIsIn

20211225 Orléans

Even though I woke about seven, it’s been a lazy morning without doubt.  Currently I am making a recording of the bells ringing.  I wonder how long they will ring?  It’s very nearly noon.  Is there a mass at noon?  Who knows.

I ate one of the pastries I bought the other day.  It’s like a calzone with apples in brioche.  Handsome as well as delicious.

I have typed this.  And I suppose I will leave this apartment at some point.  Soon?  Probably.  In spite of the abuse to my feet I am continually restless and cannot stay in here for long.

I make another long walk.  Who needs feet anyway?

I head for a large park called La base de loisirs de l’Ile Charlemagne which looks good for pictures and recording birds.  There are threats of rain so I have added my rain layer.  About half way there (about a 42 minute walk says G) I remove my insulation layer and stuff that in my backpack.  The cloud cover, though not great for photography necessarily, has definitely warmed things up a bit.

I have some trouble finding a toilet because the facilities are partially under construction/remodel and partially because my French is like that of a two year old.  But once that is done I get about disappearing into the slight woods and trails of this vast park.

There are many families and pets strolling around the area, but as I walk West (back toward Orléans) I find quiet places and listen to the local sounds of nature and try to take some interesting pictures.

I take a picture of a dog and chat with the owner.  Here name is Charlotte Sarou and it turns out she currently has no pictures of her dog.  I offer to send the ones I’ve take and take a few more so we are sure there is a good one.

I send those as I’m reminded typing this part of the story.

I make my way through the park, heading back toward the bridge to take me across the river again and back toward home.

Since I have exhausted F&R I seek out dinner for myself.  Many places are open but mostly bars.  I stop in at a bar and meet some young Frenchmen.  One is a student in IT and another is a real estate agent.  We talk for some time and I drink a cocktail, also talking with the owner, Ben (Benoit I think).

I need some food though.  They tell me of an ok restaurant which will be open.  I head there to have the rumstek de bœuf.  I talk with a couple who have moved from Paris to Orléans.  We chat for a long time at their table but I excuse myself because I really am hungry.  We chat again as they are leaving, passing my table.  The make a restaurant recommendation which I hope to try Monday.

When I was leaving the bar the card devices were not working (one was dead battery and the other was frozen) so I return again at least to pay.  My new friends are still there so we talk again and I have a beer.  They leave but I have met a second group of people (a beautiful woman and two talkative gentlemen).

Everyone wants to know why I’ve come to Orléans since it’s not a particularly touristy destination.  I explain that I have friends here but that I have worn them out with my enthusiasm.  Also, and I mentioned this before, everyone is very friendly.  It also probably helps that I’m the exotic traveler from abroad.

Finally around midnight I pay and bid my new friends good night.  Elie (the guy I’ve been talking with until the end) says we should get another drink before I leave for Seattle and so I will try to get that in as well.  Time is not your friend.

Back here and crash.  My toe has a blister.  Traveling in the winter is much harder on my feet.  I mean, traveling to a place where it is winter.  My feet were made to be bare!  To be naked!  To be free!  Fuck, they hate me.

JamesIsIn

20211224 Orléans

Up before six today.  Not my fault.  Everyone has been retiring early.

Finished writing about yesterday but haven’t published yet since I need some names spelled.  I’m sure everyone is on the edge of their seats awaiting the next chapter.

Started off to take a walk after nine but Flo caught me in the hall and told me to check with Lola and Carlos who were in her apartment.  Carlos taught me how to exchange contact information for WhatsApp which is easy and good to know (sharing a QR code).  I left with Nina and Lola who were searching for some last minute gifts.

We pass some stalls being arranged on one street (street closed) and one is filled, filled!, with sausages.  Another is similarly arranged with cheese.  Mental note to return.

They have no luck finding one particular item and they enter a shop that sells make-up and perfumes and the like.  This is too much for me.  The smell starts to give me a headache and my eyes water.  I bid them adieu and run off in search of a bit of bread for those aforementioned comestibles.

The first couple of boulangerie I see are packed with a line, so I make may way further from the festivities in town toward a district with more Muslims.  The boulangerie I find there has one person in front of me.  I buy a baguette and two pastries.

Takes me a bit to find those stalls again since as I followed Nina and Lola we twisted this way and that and all I had was a couple of photographs to remind me.  Found them though.  Bought ten sausages for 10e.  It’s like they were giving them away.  Maybe I should buy more.  I bought three cheeses (tomme de savoie, morbier, and fourme d’ambert).

I will give most of the cheese to F&R since I think I have eaten all they have now.  Terrible house guest.  Vive la France!

Seriously though, everyone here is incredibly nice.  Could it be the season?  This doesn’t strike me as the sort of thing one unpacks once a year.  I think this is just normal here.  The other day I saw to people nearly collide (one on a bike and the other walking).  They each stepped over themselves taking blame and apologizing.

Anyway, came back to the apartment for a nibble and to leave the food.  I will go down and deliver the cheeses for Flo now.  See what’s next on the agenda.

Of course I interrupted lunch for them.  But I managed to hand off the cheese without causing to much ruckus and extract myself more or less gracefully.

Again I walk along the river South.  You really have to wonder what Washington will be like in a thousand years.  More pictures of course.  I walk out for at least forty minutes and then turn again toward the center of the village.  I want to eat some ice cream and I noted a place in Maps called Moustache.

I have a hazelnut caramel ice cream and a pistachio ice cream.  I sit and eat it there before returning here to write this bit.  Still a couple of hours before dinner so I will rest.  Also published the post for yesterday and sent the Italians the pictures I promised.

Ok.  So dinner.  Well, that was amazing.  Let me just dump here.

There were some little nibbles with Champaign before dinner.  There was a fire.  Not a bad fire but in a fireplace.  It was a nice fire.  Once we got it going.  That was a thing.  And the nibbles.  Probably a dozen different things.  Including the smallest cheeseburger ever built.  Maybe you’ll see a picture.

After that there were presents.  Even they got me a present but I realize now it is down on the couch.  Some chocolates.  I’ll get those tomorrow.  Lots of presents and talking and laughing.  A little I felt like an outsider but the last present was for me and that made me feel at home more.

But then there was dinner.  And again I’d like to outline all the dishes but there were many and I don’t have all the time and mind to list all that out.  Just think of many courses with several different options.  Each delicious and none dominating.  I did spend probably fifteen minutes thinly slicing those lox mentioned earlier.  Man, salmon is the bomb.

Oh, you know, then there was cheese.  I think eight or so cheeses?  I really lost track.  Maybe it was the wine or maybe it was because the details stopped mattering.  Why did the details stop mattering?  Because it was more about these people and all the love in the room than about any dish or whatnot.  Yes, all the dishes were wonderful but maybe any dishes would have been wonderful.  Or maybe these dishes contributed perfectly to the wonder.  Anyway, you know I love cheese.

But then there was dessert.  And a selection of course.  I won’t, again, bother to list out all the options.  No one went unsatisfied.  This is the sort of meal you get.  Did I mention who was there?  It was R&F and C&L and Nina and Hugo and Manon.  These really are some of my favorite people.  Who could ask for more?

After that we played a game called Esquissé.  You start with a word and alternate between pictures and words until you come full circle to see if your word has survived intact.  Hopefully your word has generated enough laughter to power a space station.  I think that’s in the rules.

Anyway, we all won.  Except Flo who slept on the couch under the watchful eye of Redbull.  After which we all went off to bed.  That’s where I’m heading now.  See you!

JamesIsIn